What "Fragrance" Means on a Skincare Label (and Why "Unscented" Can Fool You)

On a label, "fragrance" can hide dozens of ingredients, and "unscented" is not the same as "fragrance-free." What the words really mean, and why it matters most around a newborn.

Updated on   by Henrieta Haniskova
What "Fragrance" Means on a Skincare Label (and Why "Unscented" Can Fool You)
Fourth Trimester Series

In short: On a skincare label, "fragrance" can legally stand for dozens of undisclosed ingredients, and "unscented" often means fragrance was added just to mask other smells, a different thing from "fragrance-free." Around a newborn, the safest choice is a genuinely fragrance-free product like First Touch, which carries no added scent at all, not even essential oils.

"It says fragrance-free on the front. So why is the word 'fragrance' right there in the ingredients?"

Have you ever asked yourself that? It is confusing, and rightfully so.

Let me tell you what that one word is really doing.

One word that hides a whole list

That word, "fragrance" (or "parfum"), is allowed to stand for the whole scent of a product. The law lets a company put all of its scent ingredients under that one word, because the recipe counts as a trade secret. So one little word can be hiding dozens of ingredients you will never get to see.

Everything else on the label has to be named. Scent is the one thing they get to keep to themselves.

And here is where it gets murky. Some ingredients carry a scent as a side effect, even though they were added to do a real job, to soften or to preserve. That scent can still be folded under the same word, "fragrance." So when you see it on a label, it is hard to tell which you are looking at: a perfume built on purpose, or the natural smell of something added for another reason. The word covers both, and that is exactly what makes it so easy to hide behind.

Why "unscented" can fool you

This is the one that catches most of us. "Unscented" and "fragrance-free" sound like the same thing. They mean two different things.

"Fragrance-free" means no fragrance was added. "Unscented" usually means the opposite: fragrance was added, just enough to cover up the smell of everything else, so it ends up smelling like nothing. So a product can smell like nothing and still be full of fragrance.

Nobody really polices either word, so the ingredient list is the only thing that tells you the truth. If you see "fragrance" or "parfum" on it, there is fragrance in the bottle, whatever the front says.

Why this matters more right now

Fragrance is the number one cause of skin allergies from skincare, and the top trigger for kids too. Most of the time, on normal skin, that risk just sits in the background. These first weeks are different.

When your hormones dropped, your skin changed. It is thinner now, drier, quicker to react than it used to be. And your baby's skin and nose are brand new, taking everything in for the first time, right in the few inches where you hold them. That is where scent collects. Your skin and your baby's are in the same tender window, each in its own way.

And there is one route most people forget: the mouth. Babies meet the world mouth-first. Those little hands go to the mouth over and over, because that is how they learn, and when they are teething they gnaw on their own fingers and on yours. So whatever sits on your skin or theirs finds its way in, one way or another. For a baby, a skincare ingredient is something they breathe, something the skin takes in, and something they will almost certainly taste.

It is also why your baby is busy learning your smell. How your baby comes to know you by scent is one of the oldest survival systems we have and a whole story on its own. The short version: right now, the best smell in the room is just you.

The part that worries me more

There is a second thing, and it is harder to spot. A lot of synthetic fragrance is carried in chemicals called phthalates, which help the scent last longer on your skin. The common one is diethyl phthalate, or DEP. Some phthalates are what scientists call endocrine disruptors, which is a fancy way of saying they can mess with your hormones.

Here is the part worth saying plainly. The amount in any one product is small, that part is true. But fragrance ingredients have never been tested on babies, and the effect of meeting them day after day, from one product after another, has barely been studied at all. And most of us do not use one product a day. We use many, and they add up. So the small amount in a single bottle tells you very little about what a baby actually meets in a week. I would rather be honest with you than reassuring: we do not really know, and around someone that new, that is reason enough to keep things simple.

What to put back on the shelf

When you turn a bottle over, here are the ones I would skip, especially while you are pregnant, nursing, or using it anywhere near the baby.

  • "Fragrance" or "parfum." We just covered this one. One word, a whole hidden list, and the most common cause of skin allergies. When a company keeps that part hidden, that tells you something.
  • Phthalates. Sometimes written as "diethyl phthalate" or "DEP," but usually just tucked inside "fragrance." They make the scent last longer. Some of them mess with hormones. This is the big reason to skip anything that only says "fragrance" right now.
  • Synthetic musks (galaxolide, tonalide). More fragrance chemicals. They build up in your body over time, and they have been found in breast milk. That one is hard to unhear.
  • Parabens. Look for names ending in -paraben, especially propyl, butyl, isobutyl, isopropyl. They are preservatives that can act a little like estrogen in the body. Worth skipping while your hormones are resetting.
  • Formaldehyde releasers (DMDM hydantoin, quaternium-15, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea). Long names, simple problem: they slowly give off formaldehyde to keep the product from spoiling. It irritates skin, and it is a known carcinogen. Some states are already banning them.
  • Phenoxyethanol. A preservative the FDA once warned about in a nipple cream, because the baby can swallow it while nursing and it can affect their nervous system. Skip it on anything that touches your breast or your baby.

The pattern is simple. The stuff you most want to avoid is the stuff a label is allowed to stay quiet about. So the easiest rule is this: choose skincare that tells you everything it is made of. And a quick test for any one ingredient: if you can read it and recognize it, it belongs. If you have to google the name or sound it out, leave it on the shelf, especially anything going on your baby.

The lavender that took the blame

For years, lavender took the blame for a harm it likely never caused. A few studies suggested lavender oil might disrupt hormones in young boys, and the headlines ran with it. The product blamed most often was a purple scented water that many families, especially across Latino cultures, love to use on their babies.

I once sat in a lecture by Robert Tisserand, the authority on essential oil safety. He had gone back to those studies and looked at what was actually in the products. His finding: the studies blamed lavender, but no one had ever analyzed the products to confirm lavender was even in them. When he had them tested himself, there was no real lavender oil in them at all. The scent was synthetic.

As he put it, for real lavender oil to move a baby's hormones, they would have to drink liters of it. Synthetic fragrance is a different story, and a far less studied one. Used every day, from one product after another, nobody really knows where it leads. That is the part worth sitting with.

Essential oils still ask for care, though. There is real science to using them well, and only some are gentle enough for the brand-new nervous system of a newborn. Strong scent can sensitize skin that new, and an allergic reaction in a baby is a frightening thing to watch. The simplest truth sits under all of it: in these first weeks, your scent and your partner's are all your baby needs. And heavy fragrance is more than a new mother's nervous system wants to carry, too.

Even natural scent needs to be fresh

There is one more thing about natural scent, even the gentle, well-chosen kind. It is at its best fresh. The things that make essential oils smell good, like the limonene in citrus or the linalool in lavender, slowly break down in the air, and once they do, they are more likely to bother sensitive skin. A natural product can lose its gentleness just from sitting on a shelf too long.

This is something we think about a lot.

How we make ours

Every scent in a Royal Heir product comes from a plant we name right on the label. You can read it and know exactly what is there. Nothing hides under the word "fragrance."

For the baby, and for those first raw weeks, there is First Touch. It has no added fragrance at all, not even essential oils. The scent it does have comes from the ingredients themselves, the cocoa butter most of all, since cocoa butter is about thirty percent of the formula. A soft, natural warmth, and nothing laid on top of it.

I made it food-grade on purpose: plant-based oils, nothing synthetic, no fillers, no preservatives. It is EWG Verified and safe from birth. Because those little hands always find the mouth, and for my own baby, I wanted something I would never have to think twice about when it ended up there.

And because we know that even natural scent goes off, we make it the way fresh things have to be made: in small batches, every month, and we ship it fresh. Skincare made from real plants is best when it is new, so that is how it reaches you, made close to the month you open it. This is the pearl of pearls. The best we know how to make, slowly and honestly, and it gets to you while it is still all there.

If you only do one thing, start with First Touch. It is the gentlest thing you can reach for in these first weeks, for the baby and for you.

And if you have ever held your own newborn up against the flawless "soft as a baby's skin" picture everyone promised you, that picture has a strange history of its own, and it has nothing to do with your baby.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does "fragrance" mean on a skincare label?

It is one word that can stand for the whole scent of a product, sometimes dozens of ingredients. The recipe counts as a trade secret, so a company is allowed to list all of it as just "fragrance" or "parfum." That means those exact ingredients never show up on the label.

Is "fragrance-free" the same as "unscented"?

They are two different things. "Fragrance-free" means no fragrance was added. "Unscented" often means a fragrance was added to cover up the smell of the other ingredients, so it smells like nothing but still has fragrance in it. Check the ingredient list and look for "fragrance" or "parfum."

Is synthetic fragrance safe to use around a newborn?

Fragrance is the most common skincare allergen, including for kids, and the few inches around a newborn are where any scent collects. For the early weeks, the safest choice is a truly fragrance-free product like First Touch, which only has the light smell of the cocoa butter itself.

Are essential oils and natural fragrance safer than synthetic?

Named natural ingredients have one big advantage: you can read them and know what is there. They still need care, though, because natural scent breaks down over time and can start to irritate skin once it does. That is why we make in small batches and ship fresh, and why First Touch, the newborn product, is fragrance-free.

Why does fragrance-free matter more after birth?

Your skin is thinner and quicker to react after the hormone drop, your baby's skin and senses are brand new, and you spend these weeks pressed close together. All of it points the same way: right now, less added scent is the kinder choice, and the smell your baby should be learning is simply yours.

Sources

  1. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Fragrances in Cosmetics.
  2. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. "Trade Secret" Ingredients.
  3. American Contact Dermatitis Society. Fragrances: Contact Allergy and Other Adverse Effects.
  4. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Contact allergy to hydroperoxides of limonene and linalool in a pediatric population.
  5. The Peculiar Estrogenicity of Diethyl Phthalate: Modulation of Estrogen Receptor alpha Activities in the Proliferation of Breast Cancer Cells. (NCBI / PMC8538674)
  6. Golden R, Gandy J, Vollmer G. A review of the endocrine activity of parabens and implications for potential risks to human health. Critical Reviews in Toxicology. 2005 (PubMed 16097138).
  7. Goossens A, Aerts O. Contact allergy to and allergic contact dermatitis from formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers: a clinical review and update. Contact Dermatitis. 2022.
  8. Synthetic Musks: A Class of Commercial Fragrance Additives in Personal Care Products Causing Concern as Emerging Contaminants. (review documenting bioaccumulation, including in breast milk, and endocrine-disrupting activity)
  9. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Consumer warning on nipple cream containing phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin (2008).
  10. Henley DV, Lipson N, Korach KS, Bloch CA. Prepubertal Gynecomastia Linked to Lavender and Tea Tree Oils. New England Journal of Medicine, 2007;356(5):479-485.
  11. Robert Tisserand / Tisserand Institute. Critique of the lavender-gynecomastia studies (the products used were never analyzed for essential-oil content; GC/MS of the violet-water products found no lavender markers; lab estrogenic results may be false positives from phthalates leaching out of plastic test containers).
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